Gardening in the Snow

Even in Northern Climates, Fresh Produce Can be Harvested in Winter

© Stephen Allen Christensen

Jun 8, 2009
All northern gardeners strive to squeeze production into summer's short growing season, but few bother to plant crops they can harvest during the snowy months.

Imagine adding fresh, homegrown vegetables to the menu at Thanksgiving, Christmas, or Easter. By planting crops that withstand frigid temperatures—and by utilizing practices that will make one’s local climate a USDA zone warmer—fresh-from-the-garden produce can still be brought to the table long after most people have tilled their gardens under for the winter.

Even in areas with severe winters and deep snows, growers can enjoy a measure of self sufficiency (not to mention tastier vegetables) by extending their harvesting season far into winter.

While it may be difficult to produce an abundance of food twelve months of the year in every locale, most gardeners can eat fresh cauliflower or broccoli in late autumn and early winter, Brussels sprouts from October through December, and carrots and greens throughout the winter.

Furthermore, with forethought and planning, some vegetables can be overwintered in the garden and harvested as early as February in many northern areas.

However, if one is to harvest vegetables in the fall and winter, they must be sown in the summer and fall. Traditional crop rotation, tilling, mulching, and fertilizing practices will probably need to be altered to accommodate the increased utilization of the same space.

Winter Gardening Basics

  • When planting a crop for winter production, do not plant it in the same bed as summer’s crop.
  • Reduce tilling to a minimum. Studies show that symphylans remain active in cold soils, where they normally feed on fungal strands. Tilling disrupts fungal strands, forcing symphylans to feed on plant roots.
  • Cold temperatures reduce the activity of soil microbes, rendering winter applications of fertilizers and other amendments less effective. Organic fertilizers, compost, bone meal, etc., should be worked into the soil when temperatures are warmer.
  • Use row covers (e.g., Reemay, Grow Guard) to protect crops that are transplanted to the garden in late summer. Insect pests will remain active until a killing frost reduces their numbers.

Crops That Lend Themselves to Winter Gardening

Cole crops are generally more cold-tolerant than other crops. When subjected to cold temperatures, they concentrate sugars in their tissues; these sugars act like anti-freeze that prevents leaves from freezing and imparts a sweeter flavor to the produce.

  • Broccoli: To enjoy continuous production, start different varieties of broccoli indoors in mid-June. Transplant to the garden in early August; harvest heading types in late fall and early winter, and sprouting types into late winter and early spring. (‘Apollo’, ‘Thompson’, and ‘Veronica’ mature in late fall; ‘Rudolph’ and ‘Purple Sprouting’ are late-maturing, sprouting varieties)
  • Brussels sprouts: Most cultivars are extremely cold hardy (down to 10º F). Start indoors in early- to mid-June, transplant in early August, harvest into late winter and early spring.
  • Greens (Collards and Kale): Start indoors June through July, transplant August into September, harvest as needed all winter (greens don’t last long once picked). Kale is an excellent stir-fry green, while collards are a traditional potherb.
  • Cabbage: Plant fall/winter varieties June – July, spring varieties in August (start indoors in hotter climates). Harvest fall varieties September – October, winter varieties in December, and spring varieties March – April. (Varieties: ‘Melissa’ for fall; ‘Deadon’ for winter; ‘Tundra’ or ‘January King’ for spring)
  • Cauliflower: Early varieties can be started indoors in June, transplanted in August, and harvested when mature in autumn; late varieties are started in July, transplanted in September, overwintered, and harvested the following spring. (Varieties: ‘Amazing’ and ‘Cheddar’ are early; ‘Lundy’, ‘Galleon’, and ‘Maystar’ are late)

Several root crops grow well in cooler temperatures. Once mature, they can remain in the soil through the winter down to zone 5 (a foot of overlying straw will make them easier to dig and even get them through the winter in zone 4). For colder areas, these crops can be dug when mature and stored in dry straw or damp sand.

  • Beets: Plant late crops in July or early August. Cooler fall temperatures promote even growth.
  • Carrots: Plant late crops in September, keep moist until sprouting occurs. Good varieties for fall crops are ‘Bolero’, ‘Yaya’, or ‘Dragon’. Overwintering cultivars include ‘Autumn King’, ‘Imperator’, or ‘Merida’.
  • Parsnips: Plant out in June – July, harvest all winter.
  • Turnips: Plant out from mid-July through August, harvest all winter.

Many other crops, including lettuce, spinach, chard, mustard, and endive, can be nurtured beneath low-cost cloches and cold frames for continuous winter production in many areas. These structures, which effectively increase the USDA growing zone, can be reinforced in areas of heavier snowfalls to protect nearly any crop…and maintain access for the hardworking gardener who deserves that mid-winter reward of fresh produce!


The copyright of the article Gardening in the Snow in Vegetable Gardens is owned by Stephen Allen Christensen. Permission to republish Gardening in the Snow in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.




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