The one thing that can add to the pleasure of chomping into an amply-buttered and well-salted cylinder of golden corn is growing the stuff yourself. Sweet corn is a favorite crop among American gardeners; all too often, though, inexperience or impatience leads to poor yields and disappointment.
With a modicum of research and a reasonable amount of site preparation, practically anyone can grow corn that will be a hit at those late summer barbecues and family reunions.
Choosing a Corn Variety
Recent developments in hybridizing have led to varieties of corn that are sweeter at maturity, have better field-holding ability, and retain their sugar content after harvest. Some of these cultivars must be isolated from other corn crops in either time or space in order to obtain the best results.
Some general categories and representative examples include:
- Hybrid sweet corn: Golden Jubilee is an old-time favorite. It matures late, though, so it might not be suitable for short-season areas. Seneca or Sugar Dots (a white/yellow bi-colored variety) mature ten to twenty days earlier.
- Hybrid SE/se corn: These are sugar-enhanced varieties with tender kernel walls and higher sugar content than standard hybrids. Conversion of sugar to starch is somewhat delayed after harvest. No isolation from other types of corn is usually required. Kandy Korn, Precocious, and Silver Queen (white kernels) are examples.
- Hybrid sh2 (“supersweet”) corn: Some of the sweetest corn available, sh2 hybrids typically produce kernels that hold their sugar content well both on and off the plant. Dried kernels are more wrinkled than other varieties. Must be isolated from other cultivars, and warm soils (above 70º F) are needed for germination. Varieties include How Sweet It Is and Supersweet Jubilee.
- Triplesweet corn: A cross between sugar-enhanced and supersweet hybrids. Must be isolated for best results. Serendipity is a popular variety.
- Other types: Ornamental, popcorn, and baby corn cultivars are also available for the aspiring corn enthusiast.
Growing Corn in the Garden
- Corn prefers warm soils for germination, so patience is crucial. Wait until soil has warmed to 60-65º before planting. Corn can be started indoors and transplanted, but this is tedious and requires a significant amount of shelf space.
- Corn is a heavy feeder. Turn soil deeply and add 5-10 pounds of organic fertilizer per 100 square feet (or 100 linear feet of row).
- Corn is wind-pollinated; plant each variety in blocks of at least four rows, spacing rows about 24 inches apart.
- Mulch well to control weeds and to help retain moisture.
- Plant seeds 1-2 inches deep and 4 inches apart. When seedlings are 4 inches tall, thin to 8-10 inches apart.
- Water regularly. Germination occurs in 7-14 days, depending on variety and soil temperature.
- Some gardeners apply a high-nitrogen foliar spray (e.g., kelp) until tassling begins.
When to Harvest Corn
- A good indicator of corn maturity is drying and browning of the silk protruding from the ends of the ears. If in doubt, gently expose the top few inches of an ear; kernels are mature when they are full and milky-appearing.
- Once ears are harvested, cool quickly to 34-38º to retard conversion of sugars to starch.
- Most corn varieties will produce two ears per plant.
Diseases and Pests of Corn
- Corn borers, the primary pest of corn, can be controlled by applying pyrethrin/rotenone spray before silking occurs.
- Borers and other problems can be controlled by removing all old stalks and other debris following harvest.
Nothing says “summer” like corn on the cob. And nothing is more satisfying than smearing one’s cheeks with buttered kernels from a home-grown ear of corn.
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